Day 25 - Three Labour Days and .... a War Zone?

Monday, October 28th, 2013

It was well after 1 AM when we arrived at our Christchurch motel. How nice it was to lie in late and hang about until we were hungry enough to go in search of a meal. After brunch we walked around a very quiet Christchurch - it's NZ Labour Day. We've now experienced 3 Labour Days in 2 months!

Although we were expecting to see some effects of the September 2010 and February 2011 earthquakes, we were in shock and close to tears as we walked around. The city core looks like a war zone! Christchurch Cathedral has always been an icon. Millions of dollars had just been spent replacing the roof before the quakes. This is what's left.

Because internet access is limited right now, I am unable to find a 'before' shot to post with this.

What we saw was a maze of temporary fencing, traffic cones, scaffolding and shipping containers. There are piles of rubble, partial buildings and vacant lots everywhere! Apparently 1250 damaged buildings have been removed to date and there are many hundreds to go. Many heritage buildings are still standing awaiting decisions from the courts as to whether they will be repaired or removed. Roads and traffic are a mess as they are replacing water and sewer lines.

We happened upon a "Gap Filler" called the pallet project. "Gap fillers temporarily activate vacant sites here with new ideas and creative projects for community benefit, to make for a more interesting, dynamic and vibrant city." There are currently about 10 gap fillers in Central Christchurch.

The pallet project has created spaces for coffee and food wagons and their clients with stacks of thousands of painted pallets, some with flats of donated plants. This gap filler took up the space that was probably occupied by 4 large buildings before the quakes. In the photo below a group of artists was explaining their vision for the arches on site. A ribbon-cutting ceremony was about to occur.

 We wandered around for several hours before finding a pub called the Pegasus Arms. We noted the appealing meals coming out of the kitchen while we were sipping our beer and live music in the craic style was scheduled to begin before too long, so we decided to stay. Craic or "crack" as it is pronounced is a traditional Irish term for banter, fun, entertainment and enjoyable conversation. In this setting, there were 7 musicians sitting at the table next to us and playing a variety of music similar to what we'd hear in the Maritimes.

It was an enjoyable end to what began as a very sobering visit to Christchurch.

Day 24 - Melbourne City Sights

Sunday, October 27th

It was another early morning. We met our coach in Melbourne's Federation square at 8 AM after checking out of our hotel and storing our bags.

It was a gorgeous day for our guided tour of the city. Melbourne is a beautiful city with a mix of old and very modern architecture. Transportation systems are efficient throughout the region and trams stop and wind their way through the centre of many of the streets. Our coach took us past all the sporting venues (the Aussies do enjoy their sport), through the business and shopping areas, to the port and marina areas and past historical sites. We had a few stops - the longest being at the botanical gardens and Melbourne's war memorial, called the Shrine of Remembrance. 

The building is massive and has some very unique features. It was designed so that the sun's light would enter a small opening near the top of the building at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month. Its ray of light takes 11 minutes to pass over the word LOVE on this plaque in the shrine.

                               

We were able to watch an electric light simulation of this phenomenon. I am in awe of the memorials I've seen in both Canberra and Melbourne. Although I haven't visited any significant memorials in Canada, I find it hard to believe that we have anything that can compare with what I've seen here. I need to visit what we have in BC and Ottawa before too long.

                                    

                                  

The tallest building is called the Eureka Tower. From the air the building is the shape of the southern cross (on the Australian flag). The colors of the building represent colors of the Eureka Stockade Flag - the flag adopted by unions for worker's rights. There is a red stripe on one side of the building that represents the bloodshed in the 1854 Battle of Ballarat - a struggle between government and gold diggers over gold licencing, poor treatment and the right to buy land.

Our morning tour ended at noon and from there we strolled down to the river for a cruise on the Yarra to view the city from the water. Now it was my turn - I love boats as much as Tina loves trains.

                   

Melbourne has so many interesting buildings! Here's a sample from pictures I took today.

                                                                        

                                                                   

Our River cruise took us from Federation Square in the centre of Melbourne to Webb Dock and back again.  

After our cruise we visited a media gallery where I read a children's book called "The Lost Thing" by Shaun Tan that has been made into a 15 minute animated movie. It's a great story for 5 - 9 year olds.

Then it was back to our hotel in Docklands (great location for our visit) to collect our bags before saying farewell to Susan and heading for the airport and our evening flight to New Zealand. 

Although I am looking forward to New Zealand, I'm not at all ready to leave Australia!

I wonder if I'll ever come back?

Day 23 - A Great Ocean Road Trip

October 26th, 2013

What a long day! It began with the alarm at 5:45 am and ended when we 'hit the hay' in our hotel room well after midnight.

The Great Ocean Road follows 243 km of South Victoria coastline and the scenery is breath-taking. Many countries have scenic coastlines but very few, in my experience, have a road that follows the coastline uninterrupted for such a long stretch. This road construction began as a project to provide work for WW1 servicemen in 1918.

   

                               

We traveled in a small 24 passenger coach with a great group of people from Brazil, France, Switzerland, US and other parts of Australia. Our driver, Allen, was also our tour guide. Our route took us back through Geelong, to Torquay and Bells Beach to watch the surfers and hear surfing stories, songs and the success of Rip Curl, the surf gear company that originated in Torquay. 

                               

Then it was on to Lorne, jewel of the Otway National forest, where we stopped at a picnic site for morning tea. 

                                

We also stopped at Kennett River where strolled through the trees, spotting koalas and brightly coloured parrots in their natural habitat.

    

                                                        

                                

We had lunch in Apollo, aka 'Paradise by the sea". After lunch I found the 'world famous award-winning' Doohey's ice cream shop, where I indulged in chestnut ice cream. Mmmmm....  After lunch we went for a hike in the temperate rainforest among tree ferns - beautiful!

                           

Then we went on to view the 12 apostles, a series of limestone stacks that were originally part of the coastline. 

                                      

We stopped also at Loch Ard Gorge, Port Campbell and another sandstone formation called London Bridge (last photo). Our guide gave us a great commentary between each of our stops along the way. He had grown up in this area and had plenty of history and interesting stories to relate.

We took a shortcut back to Melbourne via an inland route, stopping for quick snack at Colac. It was late when we were dropped off not far from our hotel, but the three of us had a hankering for tapas and wine, so we indulged before giggling our way 'home' to bed.

Day 22 - 21,000 Steps

                                           

Friday, October 25th, 2013

                              

After a great sleep in Susan's guest room we enjoyed an easy morning and hearty breakfast before heading out on a walking tour of Sunbury. We headed first past a man-made lake in the shape of Australia where we observed (and smelled!) huge flocks of odorous ibis nesting. The lake is within the grounds of Rupertswood mansion where the first Ashes cricket tournament was held.

                                

Sunbury is home of "the Ashes" and, apparently, anyone who follows cricket knows about this annual cricket match between England and Australia.  In 1882 Sir Rupert Clark invited the English cricket team to spend Christmas at his mansion and play a friendly cricket match with the Australians. Following the match Sir Rupert's wife burned the bails and declared the ashes would, from then on, be presented to the winner of an annual match.

                               

The lacy ironwork on this mansion is an example of what we see on many beautiful homes in Victoria. The iron was brought over as ballast for ships arriving to collect wool from Europe and was used extensively on home decoration by the wealthy.

We then walked up Jackson's Hill to a very old and beautiful building, Caloola - first used as an orphan's industrial school, then an asylum, next a university and is now sitting mostly empty. When we visited today it was the set for filming a series 2 episode of an ABC program called Dr. Blake.

Our two hour walk gave us a good feeling about Sunbury - a beautiful community of about 33,000. I can see why Susan loves it here! 

Following lunch at Susan's we all packed up and caught the train to Melbourne for a girl's weekend in the city. After checking into our hotel we took off to explore. First, Queen Victoria Market where we bought coffee and treats to enjoy as we walked around. Unfortunately we were too late to see much on offer as most were packing up for the day. What I most enjoyed was the fish market - it amazed me to see the humongous variety of seafoods available. Even abalone is now being successfully farmed and small abalone, about the size of the palm of my hand, could be purchased for $5.00 each!  I sure wish we were going somewhere to cook this evening - it was hard to pass those up!

With the market shutting down we decided to tram-hop and see where they took us. My feet needed the rest!! Once we were ready for dinner, we explored Lygon Street - famous for multicultural eateries and, especially, the Italian influence. What an experience that was!!! At least 2 blocks of wall to wall Italian restaurants with hard-selling proprietors outside trying to lure us into their establishments with offers of free bottles of wine and desserts. The gauntlet was overwhelming and enough to turn us right off Italian food. We moved on to a little bar where we enjoyed a drink and tapas plate before heading to a Vietnamese Pho and Noodle house. Tina had read a book with pho important to the story line and wanted to try it. Susan is travelling to Vietnam in two weeks and was also game. So in we went! The place was packed with university students (pho is not expensive). Susan and I thoroughly enjoyed our huge bowls but Tina couldn't eat hers. She had added too many of the optional peppers served on the side with basil and bean sprouts and subsequently found her meal way too spicy!

                                             

Friday night and the city was lit up and bustling. While looking for a route and means of transport to get back to our hotel, we happened upon large numbers of people hovering around tents set up in a park. When we went over to investigate we discovered it was an Italian Gelato Tasting! There were 8 large tents and one flavour of gelato was being offered from each of the four sides of many of them.  After purchasing a ticket that offered five tastings, ticket-holders were asked to vote on their favourite flavour. We joined in the tasting, of course. Delicious and unique flavour combinations were on offer. What better way to end an evening of pho?!

                         

Once we arrived back at our hotel, Susan retrieved the pedometer she'd been wearing. We had walked 21,000 steps today!

Day 21 - Geelong to Sunbury

Thursday, October 24th, 2013

After breakfast Gail took Tina and I to the Wool Museum in downtown Geelong. Geelong was the centre of wool processing and textile production as early 1865 and had a wool carpet factory established in 1960. The museum has a very comprehensive collection of sheep that demonstrate the various kinds of wool and an entire two floors of wool-related artefacts and displays. Merino wool is now the most popular fibre, which wasn't at all surprising to me. The fact that these wrinkly animals were more difficult to shear than other breeds caused an uprising and higher wage demands from the shearers at one time. Australian merino stud breeders have now developed larger, more productive flocks. We were also able to see a 1910 jacquard carpet loom in operation while the operator explained how it worked - pretty amazing for me!

The morning passed by too quickly in the museum. Gail whisked us back home for lunch and then to the train station where we said our good-byes. We had a one hour ride to Melbourne where Susan met us. 

"Is that all you have?" was her question before she took our picture. Yes, we are doing very well traveling light - so far - with only a small bag and a packsack each.

Susan guided us to one more train for another journey - one hour to Sunbury where she lives. We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening getting reacquainted enjoying a good visit, dinner and a cozy bed in her beautiful home.

Day 20 - Geelong and Beyond with Gail and Harry

October 23rd, 2013

It was hard to extract myself from bed this morning. It is cold, it's raining, the wind is roaring through the trees and the bed was wonderful! Once up, I put on two layers of shirts, a sweater and jeans for the first time since leaving home. 

                         

How nice of them Gail and Harry to have us! Gail just returned (the day before our arrival) from 3 weeks in Sri Lanka doing volunteer work with turtles and she and Harry are leaving on a holiday, flying first to Western Australia, on Friday. We had slotted ourselves in between their October travels and Harry has taken the day off work so that he and Gail can tour us around.

After breakfast we set off. Our first stop was Rivers, a favourite store of Gail's, where I was trying to find a warm, light jacket like hers. No luck for me but Gail managed to find a few things. Harry drove us around town describing various points of interest. Today is the Geelong Cup - a public holiday here! State school children and many public employees have the day off. Apparently, they can choose either Geelong Cup day or Melbourne Cup day as their holiday. The last 3 winners of the Geelong Cup also won the Melbourne Cup, so we are told there is much interest in the race today.

We stopped at the Geelong Botanical gardens for a walk around since the rain had stopped and the wind had died down somewhat.

                           

Our next stop was the Geelong Marine Park - a walk along the shores of the bay among marinas, seafood restaurants and the most interesting painted bollards (posts on land for mooring ships). There are more than 100 bollards painted to depict persons of historical interest to Geelong.  Artist Jan Mitchell was commissioned by the City of Greater Geelong in 1995 to transform reclaimed timber pier pylons into these remarkable works of art. Here are some of them.

We then headed toward Lonsdale Pier and Queenscliff where we had lunch. There is only half a mile between Point Lonsdale and Point Nepean - the opening to Port Phillip which has to be dredged to ensure there is depth for container ships to enter Melbourne docks. It is a narrow opening (only a half mile) and ships need to manipulate the channel carefully.

Our next stop was back home where Tina I and I each had a 20 minute nap while Gail began her mission to shop and prepare dinner! Then Harry, Tina and I collected 3 granddaughters from school before taking them to their home 20 minutes away in Torquay. We visited their home as well as Harry and Gail's summer home adjacent to 15km of beautiful sand beach on Bass Strait. 

Just around the corner is Bells Beach - a world famous surfing beach where international competitions are held.

We arrived back home to the aroma of a roast dinner with all the trimmings! Yummo (as Kate would say)!

Day 19 - Melbourne and Geelong

October 22nd, 2013

A second night in a train and it was no better for me than the first - in fact this was worse. The bunk was hard and there was a lack of air flow in the room. This train rattled, rocked, squealed and squeaked as much as the Sunlander but, in addition, it swayed as if we were in a small boat in very rough seas. The only time it was a smooth and quieter ride was when it slowed town on approach to stop. Our conductor (or is she called a steward or a porter?) explained that the rough ride is because they can't get the rails right and that the NSW trains are very old. She also commented that the privately owned rail lines that travel across the country from coast to coast are very comfortable. Tina was very happy to hear that as she is planning a train trip from Perth to Sydney in a year or two.

We were served breakfast in bed at 6:30 AM and we arrived at Melbourne's Southern Cross Station at 7:25AM. A bit of a rush!

We found a locker to stow our bags and off we went to explore early morning downtown Melbourne. The city is preparing itself for the Melbourne Cup in a couple of weeks - a very big deal for the entire country and a holiday in Melbourne - schools even close for the day! We observed some interesting architecture, did a bit of browsing, stopped for a coffee and managed to fit in shopping, as well. We took note of a few places and events we want to explore when we return to Melbourne later this week. 

Late morning we retrieved our bags and caught a commuter train to Geelong - just an hour south. Gail picked us up at the train station and took us to the beautiful home she shares with her husband, Harry. 

Their house was built in 1872 and has been kept in immaculate condition with gorgeous renovations and additions. It has stained glass windows and very high ceilings - 16' and some even higher - all trimmed with beautiful hand-crafted, intricately designed plaster crown mouldings. Harry has done, and continues to do, much of the work on this house himself. The first two owners of this home were merchants but since then, all 9 subsequent owners have been doctors!

We had lunch with Gail and Harry before Tina and I slipped away to our luxurious bedrooms for a nap in an attempt to make up for some of the sleep we lost on last night's train journey. When we emerged, their daughter Nichole and 3 granddaughters, Ellie, Ruby and Olivia were here to meet us. We all headed out to a pub for dinner where we were joined by another daughter, Jane, her husband Adam and their 2 daughters, Mia and Sophie. It was a lovely evening for Tina and I surrounded by a wonderful family.

                                

Back home we enjoyed a good visit with Gail and Harry who are avid travellers. We also enjoyed seeing photos of their most recent European holiday.

Day 18 - Our Last Day in New South Wales

Monday, October 21st, 2013

Good-bye Rob, Kate, Tyson, Monster and Zebiya. (Tripod, their 3 legged feline was unavailable for this photo)

Kate and Rob had to go back to work this morning. We really appreciated them both taking the week off in order to entertain us - we're spoiled and we know it!

We could see the mountains again today so the fires in our immediate area must be under control and fewer in number. Tina and I used the day for laundry, repacking and relaxation. With the temperature at 35+ degrees we weren't about to expend too much energy! The best thing that happened this afternoon occurred when Tina noticed a home delivery ice cream truck ringing a bell while driving by the house. It didn't take me long to find my wallet and chase him down the street and round the corner. Mmmm... strawberry sundaes for lunch and more in the freezer for later!!

Rob and Kate came home early, enough time for Rob to show us maps and pictures taken during his 8 months in Afghanistan, before we packed up the car for another beautiful ride in the country. This time it was along twisting roads among prosperous farm properties - some even with castles!! We crossed a very old medieval-looking bridge near Kangaroo Valley and ended up at the Moss Vale pub for dinner. And it was another great dinner - porterhouse steaks for Tina and Rob and NZ green lip muscles for Kate and I. (We did also share a marvelous hazelnut torte and lemon tart)

Following dinner, we took a walk around this beautiful community before saying farewell to Rob and Kate. What wonderful hosts they have been! 

Just after 10 pm we caught the night train to Melbourne (another error in our planning - what were we thinking?!). We had booked a sleeper so our conductor presented us with fully stocked toiletry bags, fresh towels and snack packs and gave us a tour of the facilities. 

                                   

After we had settled in, she returned to put down our bunks - bottom bunk for me this time! This train is very different from the Queensland train - each state has its own system. We have our own toilet, sink and shower to be shared with the next compartment which happens to be vacant. Below are 2 pictures of the compact bathroom, one with the toilet and sink folded up leaving room for a shower and the second with the sink folded down and the shower in view. There are 2 shower curtains - one to keep the sink/toilet dry and the other protecting the door where you can hang your towel and clothing. The total floor area for showering must be about 18"square!!

                                                                                         

We turned off the lights around midnight. Please let me have a good night!

Day 17 - A 40th Anniversary!

October 20th, 2013

I know I've mentioned the bird life more than once in this journal but it deserves another mention. Every morning one of the first bird sounds I hear in Bomaderry are the kookaburras. Following their wake-up call a myriad of other voices join the chorus - whoops, tweets, whistles, coo-coos, squawks and chirps. It really is quite extraordinary!

The smokey haze has dissipated somewhat today although fires are still burning all over the state. Over 200 homes have been lost so far. 

The morning news reported that today marks the 40th anniversary of the opening of the Sydney Opera House. The Opera House took 16 years to build and was in the final stages of building when I lived in Sydney in 1972. I remember the controversy about the high cost of the structure and perceived waste of tax dollars - its cost to build was just over $100 million and is now valued at $4.6 billion. By the time it opened, I had already moved on to Hobart where I lived 6 months and then on to Cairns where I was 40 years ago today. I still haven't visited the Opera House and won't get there this year either.

After breakfast we headed out for a day of hiking and swimming. Our intended hiking destination was the area around Perpendicular Point lighthouse but when we arrived at the gate we were denied permission to the peninsula due to the fire ban. Too bad! It was at the top of Rob's list of sights he wanted us to experience this week. So we went, instead, to Currawong where we walked the beaches until we found hiking trails. We'd heard about the mysterious washing onto local beaches of thousands of mutton birds this week and there they were - hundreds of them - scattered over the beaches we visited today.

                                         

Tina and I had a great botany lesson as we took pictures of various plants. We've heard about, and seen, a lot of Banksia on this trip - first introduced to us by Kathy in Coffs Harbour. It seems to be in all stages of flowering and seeding at this time of year. The jacaranda we enjoyed so much in Queensland is now beginning to bloom down here and we've observed all colours of wattle where the lorikeets like to hang out. The pink flower is called Peg Face - a ground cover here that also can have white flowers.

                                      

                       

The winds picked up again by early afternoon and we were disinclined to swim so we toured the area for a time before deciding on a late lunch of fish and chips in the seaside community of Greenwell Point. 

                                   

I'm really happy to be able to enjoy Bundaberg ginger beer again!! Yummy.

After lunch it was back to town for a bit of shopping and home again for a nice late afternoon of relaxation, cocktails and dinner before watching a movie.

It was another wonderful day with the Watchorn family!

Day 16 - Smoke and a Change of Plans

October 19th, 2013

We awoke to smoggy skies and no view of the mountains. The fires have moved south to the Wollongong area (just over an hour's drive north of here) so we are experiencing more smoke today.

This weekend I had planned to head back north to visit Robbie (another Scottish connection) in Linden in the Blue Mountains, but the bush fires devastating the Blue Mountains this week just made it impractical. Robbie is presently safe in her home and has opened her home and yard to neighbours and pets who are now homeless. 

After breakfast Kate, Tina and I went to the markets north in Gerringong for some wandering and browsing. I was tempted by two items at the market: a cashmere scarf - so light and soft, and a "pain pod" - an ipod size device with sticky pads that attach to the skin over tight or painful muscles or joints. You can administer and adjust the strength of an electrical pulse to the area where you have attached the pads. Felt like a great shoulder massage during the short demo I experienced! I'm going to keep my eyes open for this device when I get home.

We had planned a beach visit and walk to the lighthouse this afternoon but the winds, smoke and laziness of both Tina and I altered those plans. Instead it was laundry, naps and hanging out. 

Rob and Kate treated us to a beautiful leg of lamb dinner with all the trimmings cooked entirely on the barbeque this evening. Timing was perfect as there is another total ban on fires here (including barbecues) that begins at midnight tonight. 

The only photo taken today was of me with Tyson and a gin and tonic before dinner.

Day 15 - A Capital Day!

Friday, October 18th

Bush fires were still burning in New South Wales but the wind in this area had decreased considerably by this morning. Most of the destruction caused by fires, so far, has been in the Blue Mountains at the top of the map below - in the Springwood area.  After checking that the route was clear of road closures due to fires, we left at 7 AM for Canberra (otherwise known as ACT - Australian Capital Territory).

It was a 2.5 hour drive through beautiful country where we observed kangaroos, many kinds of parrots and wombats along the road. We learned about local birds, animals and forest regeneration as Kate pointed out everything she observed on the drive. We also noted the brown haze to the north - smoke from the many fires burning in the area west of Sydney. We drove through Morton National Park on our trip, passing Sassafras to Tarago on twisting roads which, I'm sure, is the reason, we saw so much wildlife.

Our first stop in Canberra was the military college campus where Rob did his training. After coffee and a tour we drove to the top of a hill on the property that offered a great view of the city.

     

Next on the itinerary was the new parliament building built adjacent to the old parliament. It is a magnificent structure with lots to see. Here's the Australian Coat of Arms on the front of the building. The kangaroo and emu were chosen because they are 2 animals that don't walk backwards. They can, but it is very difficult for them. They symbolize that Australian parliament intends to keep moving forward.

Parliament House is celebrating its 25th year anniversary with an exhibition of 25 Australian art treasures trailing throughout the building. I enjoyed the treasures via the trail posed by Squawk the Cockatoo - write-ups and questions intended for children. Once a teacher always a teacher! I often found myself following groups of students around some of the areas as I enjoyed the commentary by their guides.

         

Kate and Tina on the roof of the new Parliament House with the old white parliament buildings, lake, Memorial Drive and the Hall of the Unknown Soldier way in the background.

After lunch we visited the war memorial - a HUGE building dedicated to the soldiers who served, or lost their lives, in one of the many wars or during peace-keeping missions over the last, and this, century. Seeing the the large number of places in the world where Australian soldiers have served was a sobering experience. I have not yet visited the war memorial in Ottawa - I need to do that. The building has a research centre where Kate was able to find and take home a copy of her grandfather's record of service and experience as a prisoner of war.

At 3 o'clock we realized we had 2 hours before closing to visit the National Museum of Australia - not nearly enough time to see it all, so we split up and each did our own thing. I chose to spend most of my time in the First Australians gallery which traces the experiences of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples, their spirituality, diversity, identity and survival. I did also get to experience the Circa multimedia rotating theatre and the Visions theatre and ended my visit in the 'Garden of Australian Dreams' which is way too ultra-modern for me to describe! (Even the guide who found me alone there had trouble.) The last photo here is a representative portion of the 'garden' - just very strange!

         

It was a very full day. We found a pub for a pre-dinner drink and then an Italian restaurant for dinner before our drive home in the dark. Kate took on the chauffeuring responsibility and did a great job of dodging wombats and kangaroos on the road. We saw many who'd been hit. One kangaroo we came across just kept jumping ahead of us in our lane, instead of going off to the side of the road. Rob told us this is common behaviour for them! We were driving through smog through the last half of our journey. The bush fires are moving south.